Activity holidays: In search of... Polo in Argentina ; Where better to learn the `king of sports' than on the pampas? No need for snobby elitism there. Aoife O'Riordain picks up her stick and joins in a chukka - The Independent on Sunday (London, England)

I thought polo was a British thing?

Not strictly true. The first recorded game took place in 600BCbetween the Turkomans and Persians. The Moghuls were mainlyresponsible for taking the game to India from Persia around the 16thcentury. It was here that polo was first discovered and adopted bythe British in the 1850s. Now the 'king of sports' is played in morethan 77 countries worldwide.

So why do I have to go to Argentina?

Because Argentina is considered polo's spiritual home, and it'sspring there, which means it's the beginning of their season. Thegame arrived in Argentina at the end of the 19th century courtesy ofEnglish and Irish engineers and ranchers, with the first officialmatch taking place on 3 September 1875. While it's undoubtedly stilla game for the wealthy, polo is much less elitist in Argentina thanit is in the UK. Plus, the devaluation of the peso - disastrous forthe local economy - means it's more affordable than it used to be.

How do you play polo?

There are six 'chukkas' in a game of polo, each lasting sevenminutes. Teams of four players change ponies in between each chukka -experts can transfer from one to the other without touching theground. Polo players must always use their right hands to hold theirpolo stick, so if you're a left-hander beware. Play is fast andteams change goals after each score to minimise wind advantage, sopay attention or you'll lose track. Polo handicaps are classified ona scale of 0 to 10, with 10 being the best.

Where can I see the experts in action?

Three of the most prestigious tournaments take place from Octoberto December in Buenos Aires at Tortugas, the Hurlingham Club and -the most prestigious of them all - the Argentine Polo Association.In the elegant district of Palermo, you'll find the Campo Argentinode Polo. These hallowed fields are to polo what Maracana stadium inRio is to football. The 110th Argentine Polo Open is in full swingnow and the world's finest teams are competing, with top namesincluding the Heguy brothers and Adolfo Cambiaso, playing for teamssuch as Ellerstina Costa Rica, and La Dolfina. The winners of thefinal on 13 December can lay claim to being the world's best. Swapthe expensive seats for one of the unnumbered seats in stand 'B', toblend in with the polo set.

I'd like a leg up. Where can I start?

About an hour's drive west outside Buenos Aires in the unassumingtown of Pilar you'll find a large concentration of polo clubs, forthis is where the best players have stables. But polo is played allover Argentina, so for a true taste of country-style polo head westthrough Buenos Aires province to the Estancia La Escondida, near thevillage of Pazos Kanki. It's not La Pampa province, but it sharesmany of the same characteristics - vast open spaces and endlesshorizons.

La Escondida is a typical Argentine ranch, a low single-storeyhouse with a veranda, dating from 1906. The house is the family homeof the Avendano family and you'll be welcomed by the vivaciousCarolina, an Argentine of British and Spanish extraction and supremehostess to boot. La Escondida is the perfect introduction not justto polo, but life on an Argentine estancia. At a vast 7,000 acres,the farm is home to countless cattle and more than 200 polo ponies.Most importantly, both novices and expert polo players are equallywelcome.

OK, I'm ready to get in the saddle.

Learn polo in Argentina and there's no messing around. If you canride you'll be put straight on a pony, polo stick in hand. At LaEscondida you will be under the watchful eyes of Carolina's sonsDiego and Enrique - who only reinforce the assumption that allArgentine polo players are both charming and handsome. A day at theranch will take the form of stick and ball (hitting a ball aroundthe polo field) in the morning, and if you're up to it, chukkas inthe afternoon. Hitting the ball at a leisurely walk will be the easypart - the real challenge comes with trying to hit the ball even ata moderate canter. You will also realise that riding a polo pony isa bit like driving a BMW - all are bred for temperament, agility andstamina. Argentine breeders have found the ideal combination: partthoroughbred, and part traditional criollo cattle horse.

I think I like spectating better.

Take advantage of the Argentine countryside on your doorstep.Ride through the fields with a gaucho as your guide, soaking up thebig skies, wildlife and the spectacular pink sunsets over thepampas. Or persuade Carolina to take you for a birdwatching safari.There are more than 1,000 species in Argentina and you'll see a goodfew here, with a diverse array of birdlife including snailkites,yellow woodpeckers, finches, scissortails, the flamingo-like pinkspoonbills and strange looking southern screamers. Otherwise lie bythe pool and look forward to an asado - an outdoor barbecue - whichis an integral part of Argentine cuisine. Once you've tastedArgentine beef, nothing will ever quite compare.

My polo sticks are packed. So, how do I get there?

I travelled to Argentina as a guest of British Airways andJourney Latin America. British Airways (0845 850 9850; www.ba.com)offers return flights to Buenos Aires via Sao Paulo from pounds 677until mid-December. Journey Latin America (020-8747 8315;www.journey latinamerica.co.uk) can arrange a seven-night tailor-made trip to Argentina with three nights at the five- star AlvearPalace in Buenos Aires and a polo package at Estancia La Escondidafrom pounds 1,980 per person, based on two sharing, including returnflights, three nights b&b in Buenos Aires and four nights' fullboard at La Escondida, with daily polo tuition and chukkas in theafternoon.